Areas at a glance
- The cliffs above Tumon: Two Lovers Point and, below it, Tanguisson Beach — the nearest northern sights to the hotels.
- Dededo: the island’s biggest residential village, with the Micronesia Mall, the weekend flea market and everyday shops and eating places.
- Yigo and the far north: the peace park, the Mount Santa Rosa viewpoint and the road to Ritidian; Andersen Air Force Base occupies the rest and is closed to visitors.
- The east coast (Route 15): a quiet back road above the cliffs, with the Pagat and Marbo cave trails, a golf course and wide ocean views.
Eating and drinking
The flea market is the most memorable place to eat in the north, but only at weekend breakfast time. Otherwise Dededo and Yigo have the food courts of the Micronesia Mall, fast-food chains, bakeries and plenty of small local, Filipino and Korean restaurants along Marine Corps Drive. There is nothing to eat or drink at Ritidian, Tanguisson or Pagat, so pack water and snacks before you leave the main road.
Money and costs
The north is inexpensive to visit. Ritidian, the peace park, the beaches and the trails are free, and the viewing platform at Two Lovers Point asks only a small fee. Take cash in small notes for the flea market and the platform; cards are fine in malls and restaurants. Your main cost is the hire car.
Safety at beaches and on trails
Take the sea seriously here. At Ritidian the currents beyond and through the reef are powerful and dangerous; follow the refuge’s posted rules and stay in the shallows or out of the water altogether. There are no lifeguards at any northern beach. On the Pagat trail the rock is sharp and the heat intense — carry at least a litre and a half of water each and tell someone where you are going. Car break-ins are the commonest crime: leave the car visibly empty and carry your passport and wallet with you.
Good to know
You will hear and see military aircraft; that is normal, and photography of base gates is not appreciated. Ritidian’s caves and the Pagat village are ancestral sites — take nothing, touch nothing and leave no litter. For a contrasting day, the hills and villages of southern Guam are the natural counterpart to the north.
Sample plans
Half a day
In the late afternoon, drive to Tanguisson Beach for the walk to the mushroom rocks and a snorkel if the sea is calm, then go up to Two Lovers Point in time for sunset before returning to Tumon for dinner.
One day
Check that Ritidian is open and arrive when the gates do for a morning on the beach and forest trails. Stop at the South Pacific Memorial Peace Park in Yigo on the way back, have lunch in Dededo, rest, and end the day at Two Lovers Point.
A weekend
Saturday: the Dededo Flea Market at dawn for breakfast, then the Pagat Cave Trail before the heat builds, with a slow afternoon by the pool. Sunday: Ritidian in the morning, Mount Santa Rosa or the peace park after lunch, and sunset at Two Lovers Point.
