Guam is really two islands joined in the middle: a flat limestone plateau in the north and, in the south, an older volcanic landscape of grassy ridges, jungle ravines and bays where rivers reach the sea. This southern half is where you find the island’s highest point, Mount Lamlam, its waterfalls, and the villages that kept most of their character — Umatac, where Magellan is traditionally said to have landed in 1521, Merizo on its lagoon facing Cocos Island, and Inarajan, with its Spanish-era houses and natural sea pools.
The classic way to see it is a loop from Tumon: down the west coast on Route 2 past the overlooks at Sella Bay and Cetti Bay, round the southern tip, and back up the east coast on Route 4 past Talofofo Bay and Yona. It is about 90–100 kilometres and only two and a half hours of actual driving, but allow six to eight hours — the point is to stop often. This is still a lived-in, church-going Chamorro countryside (CHamoru is the spelling now used on Guam), not a resort area; services are few, and that is much of its appeal.
Highlights
- The view over jungle and volcanic hills from Cetti Bay Overlook
- Umatac Bay and the cannons of Fort Nuestra Señora de la Soledad
- Looking across the lagoon to Cocos Island from Merizo pier
- A swim in the natural saltwater pools at Inarajan
- Walking up Mount Lamlam, Guam’s highest point
- Lunch by the sea at Ipan on the way back up the east coast
Southern Guam in pictures
How long to stay and where to base yourself
How long: one full day is right for most visitors. Leave Tumon by about nine, drive anticlockwise so that the west-coast overlooks have the morning light behind you, and you will be back before dark. A second day is worth having if you want to climb Mount Lamlam, do a river hike or spend unhurried time in the water without watching the clock.
Where to base yourself: almost everyone visits from Tumon. There is very little accommodation in the south; the one large property is a golf and sports resort in the inland hills of Yona, on the east side — spacious and quiet, but far from any beach and impractical without a car. Staying down here suits golfers and people who want a retreat rather than a seaside holiday.
