Areas at a glance
- San Antonio and Agingan: the south-west corner, on the lagoon side, with the two resorts and the end of Beach Road.
- The airport plateau and south coast: the old Isley Field bunkers, Obyan and Ladder beaches and the cliffs of Naftan Point.
- San Vicente and Lau Lau Bay: the main east-coast village and the island’s shore-diving bay.
- Kagman: the eastern peninsula, with Forbidden Island and Tank Beach.
- The central ridge: Capitol Hill and the track to the summit of Mount Tapochau.
Eating and drinking
Restaurants are thin on the ground. The resorts have their own, and the villages of San Antonio, San Vicente and Kagman have small stores and a few local eateries serving Chamorro barbecue, red rice and plate lunches — Chamorro is spelt CHamoru on Guam. There is nothing at the beaches or on the summit, so pack a picnic and at least a litre and a half of water each. The wider choice is back in Garapan.
Money and practicalities
The US dollar is the currency. All the natural sights are free. Carry some cash for village stores and small operators; ATMs are on the west coast. Toilets are scarce away from the resorts and the airport.
Safety on land and at sea
The east and south coasts face open ocean. Rogue waves, shore break and rip currents make swimming unsafe at Tank Beach, Forbidden Island and often elsewhere; there are no lifeguards. Check the tide and the swell, never turn your back on the sea on rock shelves, and do not hike alone. Trails are hot, rocky and sometimes unmarked — wear closed shoes, start early and tell someone where you are going. Do not leave valuables in cars at trailheads. Wartime munitions still turn up in the bush: look, do not touch.
Good to know
Latte stones, bunkers and other historic remains are protected by law, and the bird and turtle sanctuaries have their own rules — keep to paths and keep your distance. More background is on the history and culture page, and general advice in the Mariana Islands travel guide.
Sample plans
Half a day
Drive or take an ATV tour up Mount Tapochau for the morning view, come down through Capitol Hill, cross to the Forbidden Island lookout, and return to the west coast for a late lunch.
One full day
Mount Tapochau early, the Forbidden Island lookout and Tank Beach before noon, a picnic above Lau Lau Bay, then round the south by the airport bunkers to Ladder Beach and a late-afternoon swim at Obyan if the sea is calm.
Two days
Day one as above, without rushing. Day two: a guided shore dive at Lau Lau Bay or the low-tide hike down to Forbidden Island in the morning, the trail to the Old Man by the Sea after lunch, and sunset from Agingan Point.
